Island Hopping - Adventure between dunes and headwinds
In recent years, my bikepacking adventures often took me far away — to Scotland, the Faroe Islands or somewhere far up north. It was never about performance or records, but about the experience itself — reduced to the essentials, slowed down, with everything I need on the bike. But at some point, I started asking myself: why not stay in Germany? Why not explore what’s right outside my front door — with the same spirit of discovery but a new perspective?
The Idea: Connecting Islands, Not Just Circling Them
That’s how the plan was born: a bikepacking trip across the German North Sea islands. Not just riding around a single island, but connecting several — by ferry, on dams, along narrow coastal trails, and through salty air. And because I rarely ride alone on such trips, it was quickly clear: Martin Donat would join me. We’ve done many tours together, and we know that good gear and improvisation go hand in hand on rides like this.
The Setup: Flexible and Ready for Anything
For this tour, I rode the Ghost Asket CF PRO — a light, comfortable gravel bike perfect for multi-day trips. What stood out: the well-designed mounting options for bags. Tent, stove, clothing, tools — everything had its place and was easy to access. That kind of functionality really makes the difference on longer rides.
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Bikepacking-Wonder
From Klanxbüll to Rømø: Off-Season Quiet
Our journey began in Klanxbüll, just before the Danish border. From there, we crossed the long dam to the island of Rømø. In April, it was still low season — peaceful, but so quiet that we couldn’t even find an open restaurant. Our first meal? Pizza, eaten outside in the wind, in puffy jackets, in front of a Danish snack bar. Indoor dining wasn’t allowed.
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Sylt: Fish Sandwiches, Dunes — and Currywurst at Sansibar
The next morning, we took the ferry to Sylt. Early fog, salty air, the first fish sandwich — the tour feeling kicked in. In List, we met my friend Dietmar. He’s lived on the island for years and spent 16 of them as the head chef at Sansibar — the famous dune-side restaurant that draws celebrities in the summer.
Today, he runs a small café with a focus on healthy, regional food. Still, he took us back to his old workplace. Though we weren’t rich — maybe just good-looking — we were welcomed without hesitation. Sweaty, in our cycling gear, with loaded gravel bikes instead of a Porsche — and yet completely accepted. That kind of openness made our stop at Sansibar one of the most memorable moments of the trip. The currywurst on the steps, between restaurant and terrace, became a symbol of this tour: unconventional, honest, and warm.
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Amrum: Dunes, Camping, and North Sea Silence
From Sylt, we took the fast boat to Amrum. This island, with its vast dunes and wide-open sandscapes, left a lasting impression. The campsite near the beach was quiet and remote — perfect. Because wild camping isn’t allowed on the islands, we planned all our stages with Komoot to end at official campsites. It worked flawlessly and always brought us to special places.
Föhr: Tech Troubles and Human Kindness
The next morning, we looped around Amrum and took the ferry to Föhr. There, we hit a snag: Martin’s electronic shifting system stopped working — the battery was dead, and we had no replacement. Spirits dropped — until a road cyclist with the exact same groupset rode past. I sprinted after him, explained the situation — and without hesitation, he handed us his spare battery. No questions, just help. That moment of spontaneous kindness saved the day and is something we’ll never forget.
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Flat, but Still a Challenge: 320 Kilometers With Headwind
All in all, we covered 320 kilometers — with just 340 meters of elevation. Sounds easy? Not at the North Sea. When the wind hits you head-on, even the flattest stretch becomes a real test. But that’s what makes this area so unique: striking scenery and ever-changing conditions that keep you on your toes.
Conclusion: Seeing Familiar Places With New Eyes
This tour was more than another bikepacking trip. I’ve known the North Sea coast since I was a child — it ’s where I first learned to ride. But with a tent, a rough route, and our own pace, it turned into something completely new. Slower, deeper — and full of stories that will stay with us.
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